We chose Panglao instead of Bouracay island, which is known as a “party island”, because we were not looking for lots of night life and drunken strangers. As much as I love the beach and enjoyed my relaxing time there, I was ready to go back to the city of Manila by the fifth day.
This time in Manila, we stayed at the newly opened “Hotel H20”, which is literally in Manila’s Ocean Park. The pool for the hotel is behind the pool for the sea lion show and in front of the water for the musical fountain light show. Next to this is called “liquid club”, which is another set of pools and a bar and dance floor. Kelly and I were having a drink in one of the pools when the sea lions came waddling past it with their trainers on the way back to their habitat. It was the closest I’ve ever been to being behind the scenes at an Aquarium.
The best part for me we had a giant fish tank in our room which ran the entire length of one wall. The fish tank itself is even bigger, running through multiple rooms. This way, we could watch the fish swim past our tank, not knowing when they might return, and spotted new fish every day for the three days we spent there.
My favorite part of the Aquarium was the Jellies exhibit. You may know of my fascination with Jelly Fish. I am mesmerized watching them move and float. The Jellies exhibit had many different tanks and mirrors, with different flashing lights coordinated with the blasting music. The back wall is made up one giant tank with bright changing lights where hundreds of tiny circles of jellies float in swirls to the music. Smaller takes with larger jellies, the kind with pumping bells and hook-shaped stingers are placed alone the walls. In the middle, closed during the day, is a bar which turns this exhibit into “Genius Bar” by night. Brilliant!
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Highlights of Panglao
We spent the next five nights at that hotel on Panglao Island. It was many relaxing days of reading, thinking, beaching, and eating. Alona beach has a whole strip of restaurants that have tables on the sand, a few feet from the ocean. It felt like a dream to have dinner watching the sunset and listening to the waves.
Best View: Chocolate Hills
These are a collection of hills that turn brown in the summer, hence the name. Even though they were green because it was the “cold season”, they were beautiful.
Best Star-Gazing Spot: Alona beach
If you walk past the restaurants there is a stretch of beach that is wider and darker, without the many lights for the Christmas-decorated restaurants. Lying there, looking up at the sky, I suddenly remembered that I grew up in a place where I could see constellations.
Biggest Annoyance: “Taxi?” “Island hopping?” “Diving, ma’ am?”
You could not make it to the beach without being asked each of these questions a few times. I’ll admit I’m out of practice because in China, I either walk right by because I don’t know what they’re saying, or at most shake my head and say, “Sorry, no Chinese” and am left alone. Luckily, though, the approaching men would not follow us, and would eventually take, “No thank you” for an answer.
Best Wine: Le Elephante Blu
This awesome spot, which we only referred to as “the Blue Elephant”, was a great little spot off of the beach. It was a cottage that had been turned into a restaurant and hotel. With their multiple couch areas, delicious wine and tasty appetizers, like hummus and buffalo cheese on bread, and coffee-house, stay-as-you-wish, atmosphere, it quickly became a daily spot for us.
Best Lunch: Floating Riverboat
As part of a tour-the-island we arranged with our hotel, were hired a private driver to take us to Bohol’s top touristy spots. One of my favorite parts was this lunch on a riverboat. You sit at a table and help yourself to the buffet of fish, meat, rice, fruit, etc. as you float down the river. They even have a live singer create some playful ambiance to oldies-but-goodies like the Beatles, while you take in the lush surroundings. Everyone who had done this recommended it to us, and it did not disappoint!
Best Beach Fun: Building a Sand Castle
What started as an impromptu idea became a 3-hour collaborative project. By the end of our efforts, Kelly and I had designed a castle with a sea-weed designed mote, a shell and coral garden, and a backyard pool complete with a palm-made path and a working hammock made from a coconut, piece of rope, and two branches. We collected everything from the sea, and after the nigh heavy rainstorm and high tide, everything was returned.
Best View: Chocolate Hills
These are a collection of hills that turn brown in the summer, hence the name. Even though they were green because it was the “cold season”, they were beautiful.
Best Star-Gazing Spot: Alona beach
If you walk past the restaurants there is a stretch of beach that is wider and darker, without the many lights for the Christmas-decorated restaurants. Lying there, looking up at the sky, I suddenly remembered that I grew up in a place where I could see constellations.
Biggest Annoyance: “Taxi?” “Island hopping?” “Diving, ma’ am?”
You could not make it to the beach without being asked each of these questions a few times. I’ll admit I’m out of practice because in China, I either walk right by because I don’t know what they’re saying, or at most shake my head and say, “Sorry, no Chinese” and am left alone. Luckily, though, the approaching men would not follow us, and would eventually take, “No thank you” for an answer.
Best Wine: Le Elephante Blu
This awesome spot, which we only referred to as “the Blue Elephant”, was a great little spot off of the beach. It was a cottage that had been turned into a restaurant and hotel. With their multiple couch areas, delicious wine and tasty appetizers, like hummus and buffalo cheese on bread, and coffee-house, stay-as-you-wish, atmosphere, it quickly became a daily spot for us.
Best Lunch: Floating Riverboat
As part of a tour-the-island we arranged with our hotel, were hired a private driver to take us to Bohol’s top touristy spots. One of my favorite parts was this lunch on a riverboat. You sit at a table and help yourself to the buffet of fish, meat, rice, fruit, etc. as you float down the river. They even have a live singer create some playful ambiance to oldies-but-goodies like the Beatles, while you take in the lush surroundings. Everyone who had done this recommended it to us, and it did not disappoint!
Best Beach Fun: Building a Sand Castle
What started as an impromptu idea became a 3-hour collaborative project. By the end of our efforts, Kelly and I had designed a castle with a sea-weed designed mote, a shell and coral garden, and a backyard pool complete with a palm-made path and a working hammock made from a coconut, piece of rope, and two branches. We collected everything from the sea, and after the nigh heavy rainstorm and high tide, everything was returned.
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Christmas Day
On Christmas morning we had before 12 to check out of our resort, and we used our time wisely. We had our free breakfast, which unlike the cornflakes and jam I’d predicted, was your choice of any full meal (eggs, meat, rice, fruit, coffee, etc.) at the restaurant. Kelly’s been eating meat here non-stop, even though I still can’t tell the difference, other than the fact that there’s less bones than in China.
We laid and read in hammocks and on chairs by the beach. Then we took out one of the two-person kayaks into the nature-preserved section of the ocean. It’s meant for snorkeling, but even from the boat I could see through the beautifully clear water to the ocean life below. I saw fluorescent fish and intricate reefs. I saw coral of all different shapes and sizes, blooming like flowers, flat like mushrooms, and spikey like hundreds of starfish. Even walking around near the shore we saw so many starfish and sea urchins (which made us step lightly!)
From the kayak I saw little blue fish, ones with a glowing yellow tail and bright blue fins, fish that were zebra-striped and flat. They came right up to the kayak in schools, swimming around our oars. Looking at their dazzling colors, I remembered for a moment why black lights had been a fad. There is something awesome about blue lighting of water and sharp yellow, red, and white details.
We drifted, holding an anchor rope set in the middle of the reef, watching the world below and listening to the beach blare “The Little Drummer Boy” and Maria Carey Christmas.
After a dip in the pool it was time to pack up. We were brought to our new hotel, free of charge. It was sad to leave.
Our new hotel, though much cheaper and a hotel, not a resort, is closer to stores and restaurants and Alona beach. We walked down to the beach, (about a 5 min. walk) and had a San Miguel, THE beer of these islands, and went swimming.
As you can tell from my rambling, it was a very long day! Without traveling and family and gift-opening, there are a lot of hours to fill on Christmas day. We swam in the pool, played rummy in our room, played pool (billiards), and had a nice Christmas dinner too!
Then we watched TV for the first time in…a long time, considering neither of us had cable in NY. I’d forgotten what it was like to flip through channels, especially since the invention of the “guide” button. (It’s slightly alarming to see “Pentagon Hour” from outside the US, which chronicled a young towny from ME who raised however much for US soldiers by walking across the country, and then more footage of soldiers and military. Do the conservatives run all of our media?)
After channel surfing for a while we actually managed to catch the end of “Four Christmases,” with Reece Witherspoon and Vince Vaughn, and then called it a night. I’m not complaining, mind you. I am loving the weather and the food and the relaxing time on the beach. But Kelly and I agreed at night that Christmas day away from everyone and everything familiar is a lot like how people don’t really have fun on their birthdays. Damn you, memories and expectations!
Merry Christmas to our loved ones! We are thinking of you!
Friday, December 24, 2010
It's Christmas Time...in the Islands
Even though the weather here only brings to mind summer vacation, the lights, trees, and merry spirit is comforting to be around. There is tons of Christmas bling in the Philippines. I’ve seen carols, lights, decorated (fake) trees, nutcrackers, and even a fireplace-turned-gingerbread house that Kelly and I had to pose in front of. It reminds me of the “Christmas Land” in The Nightmare before Christmas.
I was even told that there is a mandatory Christmas bonus here of one month salary. All the signs here advertise a “Christmas sale” or wish us a “Merry Christmas!” It is nice to be in a country that celebrates Christmas during the holiday. Not that I don’t promote the “Holiday Season” division in America to represent our diverse culture, but it’s nice to be in a place where Christmas is the same for everyone. I wonder if this is what my Jewish friends would feel if they went to Israel during Hanukkah, you know, with less religion and more commercialism?
This is a Catholic country, but it’s not too religious-y. It’s nice to see relig
ion as it’s meant to be, un-judgemental and friendly, with people living harmoniously and welcoming others. The family knows that Kelly and I are a couple, and they had no qualms of putting us in the same room, or worries we might influence their children. (I did, however, notice public busses with the tag, “God Bless This Ride” and I spotted a little sign off to the side that said, “Fear God. Repent and Be Saved.” I also love the billboard that is all black with just the white writing, “Talk to Me. – God” Just a gentle reminder!)
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We spent 3 days at Amarele, a really nice resort on Panglao Island. All of the reviews we’d read held true. We had a private balcony overlooking the pool and down to the beach. We did all sorts of resort-y things like get fruity drinks brought to us on the beach, and eating dinner in the quasi-outdoor restaurant overlooking the water. Our resort had free DVD rentals and board games, and I thoroughly enjoyed sinking into modern-classics like “She’s All That” and “Casper”, while we played scrabble with what’s left of our English literacy.
The resort staff was beyond friendly and accommodating. The resort even had performances like choirs and bands play Christmas songs every night, and gave us a little present of Filipino cookies on Christmas Eve!
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Manila
Manila is a big city in the Philippines. There are taxis to get around, but we were really lucky to have family drive us around, because the taxi lines were outrageously long, running all the length of a sidewalk. I was amazed when I saw these, family after family with their holiday purchases, just waiting patiently in a mile 50 ft long. No one was swearing, or cutting, or bumping others as they inched forward. As we were walking someone actually bumped Kelly, and then apologized! Can you imagine? After going from NY, where they don’t have the time to say sorry as they brush past you, to Beijing, where it’s just not in their culture to recognize that as a wrong doing, I had forgotten that was a possible response.
Kelly and I spent three days in Manila, mostly shopping, reading, and enjoying the warm weather. The family we stayed with had four lovely, adorable children, whose Philippine accents made everything they said, even when they were rough housing with or teasing each other, so adorable!
On our last day there the grandfather of the family volunteered to take us to the beautiful city of Tagaytay. It was so above and beyond for a host. There is a volcano that has a lake inside of it. This volcano is actually inside of another, much larger lake, which is actually in the city, which is also a volcano. The city sits above these, and from there we could look down at the lake, inside the volcano, inside the lake, inside the volcano. It is difficult to explain but so very worth seeing. The grandfather took us there, brought us to two restaurants so that we could see it from different views, and bought us breakfast, lunch, and delicious cappuccinos. We are very lucky tourists.
On the way back he even stopped by the roadside to get us coconuts. You can pick the one you want from the pile and they chop it until they strike the water. Then they just throw a straw in, and there is a surprising amount of coconut water. Our “tour guide” the grandfather even told us that during the war they used coconut water in IVs for the soldiers, when there wasn’t any clean water!
I really enjoyed learning about the history of the island and the culture of the people while staying with the family. I feel that I learned more about Philippine culture in a few days than I have about Chinese culture in the many months I’ve been in China. The language barrier is really difficult to overcome. I’m doing well in the city, but I find myself in western places, or western-adapted Chinese places, because I cannot read a real menu or really speak to a waitress. It was so refreshing, also, to be given a tour and driven around by someone who could just show me this and that, here the new sky bridge and how it was built, there the Philippino Christmas Star and what it is made of. It makes me wonder how much of China I have seen, but not been able to realize or understand.
Monday, December 20, 2010
Christmas Miracle
What can I say about the miracle that is being in the Philippines right now?
I can start by saying that Kelly and I are definitely having the culture shock we couldn’t register in China. I guess culture shock has more to do with your expectations than the culture you’re actually experiencing. The city of Beijing, with its buildings and traffic, stores and restaurants, did not feel so different from NYC. I think that’s why we slipped into living there, month after month, adjusting to menu-pointing and the art of mime.
It’s hard to explain, but walking around the Philippines is both completely different and welcomingly homelike. The English is the first incredible difference. I feel like I’ve been given super powers. I’m amazed just walking around and reading store signs, or leering out windows and catching billboards as they fly by. I know what that means! That’s saying something…to me! I feel invincible, like I can wander around somewhere and not have to worry about getting lost…because I could ask for directions! Beautiful!
Unfortunately, Kelly and I have been interacting with English –speaking strangers like we’ve been recently released from the wild. We’re so used to mime and pointing that we’re confusing words and our tone and deliverance needs some serious work. I’m still talking about people like they can’t hear me, which is a very dangerous game in a crowd. By habit I’m still gesturing wildly with my hands and arms to waitresses that must be thinking, “I’m not an idiot, you spoiled American.” But actually, the other amazing culture “shock” here is how incredibly nice everyone is. Those waitresses are probably thinking, “wow, this person talks expressively” and keeps a smile on herher (At first I was put off by the “ma ‘am” thing, which I’ve been getting from everyone here, but now I realize it’s a respectful greeting, and not an indication that I’ve gotten seriously older since I left for China.)
There’s the shock of the weather, of course, that is so warm Kel and I had to buy dresses upon arrival. I had a serious cold in Beijing, and was up to a pack a day – of tissues. Here I can finally breathe again. (What’s so interesting and ironic is that this is the Philippine cold season, and the family we stayed with actually had coughing colds.)
The other major shock is just the color. I feel like I’ve been in Kansas and have finally stepped out into the Technicolor world. The greens are greener than I ever remember. The flowers, pink, yellow, orange, purple, just vibrant against the lush green. I’m sitting on our balcony overlooking the ocean, and there are more shades of blue and green in the water than I remember from my many memories of the sea.
This is not an advertisement for the Philippines (because I’m not yet getting paid for this), nor is this meant as a dig on China, or discrediting my time there. I’m just really amazed at how, regardless of time zones, this feels like the other side of the world.
I can start by saying that Kelly and I are definitely having the culture shock we couldn’t register in China. I guess culture shock has more to do with your expectations than the culture you’re actually experiencing. The city of Beijing, with its buildings and traffic, stores and restaurants, did not feel so different from NYC. I think that’s why we slipped into living there, month after month, adjusting to menu-pointing and the art of mime.
It’s hard to explain, but walking around the Philippines is both completely different and welcomingly homelike. The English is the first incredible difference. I feel like I’ve been given super powers. I’m amazed just walking around and reading store signs, or leering out windows and catching billboards as they fly by. I know what that means! That’s saying something…to me! I feel invincible, like I can wander around somewhere and not have to worry about getting lost…because I could ask for directions! Beautiful!
Unfortunately, Kelly and I have been interacting with English –speaking strangers like we’ve been recently released from the wild. We’re so used to mime and pointing that we’re confusing words and our tone and deliverance needs some serious work. I’m still talking about people like they can’t hear me, which is a very dangerous game in a crowd. By habit I’m still gesturing wildly with my hands and arms to waitresses that must be thinking, “I’m not an idiot, you spoiled American.” But actually, the other amazing culture “shock” here is how incredibly nice everyone is. Those waitresses are probably thinking, “wow, this person talks expressively” and keeps a smile on herher (At first I was put off by the “ma ‘am” thing, which I’ve been getting from everyone here, but now I realize it’s a respectful greeting, and not an indication that I’ve gotten seriously older since I left for China.)
There’s the shock of the weather, of course, that is so warm Kel and I had to buy dresses upon arrival. I had a serious cold in Beijing, and was up to a pack a day – of tissues. Here I can finally breathe again. (What’s so interesting and ironic is that this is the Philippine cold season, and the family we stayed with actually had coughing colds.)
The other major shock is just the color. I feel like I’ve been in Kansas and have finally stepped out into the Technicolor world. The greens are greener than I ever remember. The flowers, pink, yellow, orange, purple, just vibrant against the lush green. I’m sitting on our balcony overlooking the ocean, and there are more shades of blue and green in the water than I remember from my many memories of the sea.
This is not an advertisement for the Philippines (because I’m not yet getting paid for this), nor is this meant as a dig on China, or discrediting my time there. I’m just really amazed at how, regardless of time zones, this feels like the other side of the world.
Saturday, December 18, 2010
You Have to Earn Your Vacation
The last week of school went incredibly slowly. I got a terrible cold and still had to make it through the “holiday performance”, which had only Christmas songs and some embarrassing NYC-style hip hop, to close the week. (It was on a Thursday, and we had the kids all day, after school, fed them dinner, and then sat with them during the show until 8 pm. Thank you, 14-hour work day!)
Friday night Kelly and I decided to have our Christmas Eve, while we still had “The North Pole”, as I now refer to our Christmas-style bedazzled apartment. We even got our hands on a copy of the Muppet Christmas Carol, a staple for Christmas-eves from my childhood.
Unfortunately, we both got a stomach bug, on top of the colds, and had an unpleasantly sick evening with the movie in the background. Luckily by fake Christmas morning we were better, if not cured, and were able to at least sip coffee while we opened our presents.
We left the next day for the Philippines. We arrived insanely early at the airport, but I was just so happy to be in an airport again that I could have stayed there all night. Beijing Capital International Airport is really a gorgeous piece of architecture, if I do say so myself. In our terminal the food options were a Japanese place, a Chinese restaurant, and one called, “STEAK, BEER, PASTA CAFÉ.” That was meant for us.
In Manila we stayed with some of Kelly’s Aunt’s family, who really treated us like family. They were so warm and welcoming. It was wonderful, on top of being in such a friendly place, to be staying with family near the holidays. Let the vacation begin!
Friday night Kelly and I decided to have our Christmas Eve, while we still had “The North Pole”, as I now refer to our Christmas-style bedazzled apartment. We even got our hands on a copy of the Muppet Christmas Carol, a staple for Christmas-eves from my childhood.
Unfortunately, we both got a stomach bug, on top of the colds, and had an unpleasantly sick evening with the movie in the background. Luckily by fake Christmas morning we were better, if not cured, and were able to at least sip coffee while we opened our presents.
We left the next day for the Philippines. We arrived insanely early at the airport, but I was just so happy to be in an airport again that I could have stayed there all night. Beijing Capital International Airport is really a gorgeous piece of architecture, if I do say so myself. In our terminal the food options were a Japanese place, a Chinese restaurant, and one called, “STEAK, BEER, PASTA CAFÉ.” That was meant for us.
In Manila we stayed with some of Kelly’s Aunt’s family, who really treated us like family. They were so warm and welcoming. It was wonderful, on top of being in such a friendly place, to be staying with family near the holidays. Let the vacation begin!
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